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Keynote Lectures


Skin Biology

Skin Biology – A New Approach to the Central Issue of Cosmetics

Prof. Leonhard Zastrow

In recent years, our knowledge of the skin’s structure and function has rapidly increased. Insights into the complex processes of physiological skin aging due to extrinsic or intrinsic reasons, of premature skin aging and of pathological changes such as skin cancer are published in more and more detail. If we consider the skin not only as „the largest human organ“ but as an interface between the organism and the environment and if we take the findings of interface chemistry and interface physics duly into account, new approaches are opening up.

This refers particularly for the inner phases that the various dermal layers are forming among each other. The following questions have to be considered: How is the energy supply of the skin arranged? How are, e.g., the defense systems against radiation, particulates and bacteria organized and where are they localized? How is the defense capacity systemically maintained? Are external systems, creams, lotions etc., capable of compensating any systemic undersupply and, if so, how? Chemical signal-generating molecules, specifically free radicals should be investigated for their role in skin aging and carcinogenesis. Where and on which conditions do they become effective? The presentation is about this new approach and describes first consequences for skin cosmetics and medicine.



Ultrastructural Immune Localization of Corneous and Junctional Proteins in the Human Hair

Prof. Lorenzo Alibardi

Transmission electron microscopy coupled to immunogold allow a fine localization of proteins involved in cornification and cell cohesion in the human hair, despite cornification alters or hide antigens to the binding with specific antibodies. The immunodetection of keratins and some associated structural and functional proteins involved in the process of hair cornification has been done, allowing to determine their precise localization in the different hair compartments, ORS, IRS, cuticle, cortex and medulla.

The ultrastructural localization of keratins of type I and II, K17, sulfur-rich KAPs, involucrin, loricrin and isopeptide-bonds, desmogleins, plakophilins and beta-catenin, and of the main enzymes involved in cornification such as transglutaminase, sulfydryl oxidase and caspase 14, is presented. Immunodetection of telomerase indicates cell proliferation in the hair bulb and ORS.

The study evidences the progressive loss of immunoreactivity to most proteins from the keratogenous to the consolidation zone of the developing hair where cornification is completed. The mature hair shaft is chemically and physically resistant and ensures endurance and functionaly to the hair exposed on the epidermal surface.


Modern Lifestyle

Natural Cosmetics – Facts and Fictions

Prof. Dr. Dr. h.c. Reinhard H.H. Neubert

In the last years, intensive efforts have been stepped up in research, marketing and commerce to generate natural cosmetic products.

Therefore, the state of the art concerning natural cosmetics is presented and discussed in this lecture starting with the definition of the natural cosmetic actives and excipients. The differences in between natural actives and excipients and the semisynthetic ones are presented and discussed. The challenge in the field of the natural is the search for natural surfactants. Some examples are presented.

The advantages of natural cosmetic actives are discussed and critically evaluated. Phytoceramides and moistening plant extracts are presented as examples for natural cosmetic actives.

The requirements are presented which are necessary to characterize and standardize the natural cosmetic actives and excipients. Furthermore, methods are presented which can be used in order to optimize the natural cosmetic formulations concerning performance as well as stability and release of the cosmetic actives. The challenges in this concern are both the preservation of the natural cosmetic formulations based on natural preservative agents and the packaging of the formulations using natural materials.

At the end, a comprehensive concept of natural cosmetic formulations is presented based on natural cosmetic actives as well as excipients.


Shielding the Skin

From Air Pollution to Sun Exposure: Shielding the Skin Against Environmental Threats

Prof. Dr. med Jean Krutmann

Skin aging results from an interplay of intrinsic (e.g. genetic) and extrinsic factors. In recent years it has been appreciated that extrinsic skin aging is not merely due to chronic exposure of human skin to ultraviolet (UVB and A) radiation, but that wavelengths beyond UV, e.g. in the visible and near infrared range contribute as well. In addition, population-based cohort studies have clearly shown that chronic exposure to selected air pollutants such as traffic-related particulate matter, soot, nitrogen oxide and ozone is associated with an increased manifestation of skin aging traits, e.g. pigment spots or wrinkles.

In this presentation I will review (i) the epidemiological evidence supporting these conclusions, (ii) mechanistic studies employing ex vivo and in vivo human skin models to study the potential cause/effect relationship between air pollution and skin aging, (iii) and how such models can be used to identify cosmetic actives to effectively shield human skin against such threats. I will also discuss very recent studies which suggest that different environmental factors including distinct wavelengths present in solar radiation as well as defined air pollutants can influence each other and that this interaction is relevant for skin health, and that gene/environment interactions are critically involved in aging of human skin.


Ethnics – Cosmetic around the World

Cosmetics around the World

Dr. Frédéric Leroy

Beauty is a universal quest. But its translation and its concrete demonstrations, and in particular cosmetic products, are diverse, and could vary strongly from a continent to the other one. Cosmetics, the science of the beauty, has always adapted itself to this diversity.

Multiple factors explain these variations, among which we find the cultural differences between the differences regions of the world, but also the specific needs linked to the ethnic origins of the populations. Indeed, the skin and the hair are not uniform throughout the world. The curliness of hair, the early signs of the ageing of the skin for example are linked originally ethnic, and it seems obvious that hair or skin care products adapted to every typology will be different. These local characteristics led to specific routines and very different cosmetic habits.

We can believe that the globalization and the strong influence of certain models (western, Japanese) are going to drive a decrease of the differences and to a standardization of cosmetics. But in fact that's not the case, unlike new specificities appear locally as for example the influence of the environment on the properties of hair and skin, and which requires the design of products specifically adapted to local problems.

If cosmetics is now totally globalized, the range of cosmetic products will become more and more specific at the local needs.


Delivery Systems – How Deep is Your Effect?

Delivery Systems for Skin Penetration

Prof. Samir Mitragotri

Delivery of actives into skin, in spite of its inherent advantages, is limited to low molecular weight drugs due to the barrier properties of stratum corneum. Stratum corneum allows penetration of only small and hydrophobic actives in necessary quantities. The emerging landscape of actives on the other hand comprises macromolecules such as proteins, peptides, antibodies and nucleic acids. Our laboratory is investigating various chemical and physical means of increasing skin permeability to such actives in a painless and patient-compliant way. These methods include devices such as ultrasound and liquid jets, chemical means such as ionic liquids and biological means such as peptides. Physical methods temporarily disrupt the skin in a painless way or provide an active mode of drug transport. Chemical methods offer means to formulate the active or permeabilize the skin without inducing irritation. Finally, the biological methods provide opportunities for enhanced local drug delivery. Collectively, these technologies offer various advantages including delivery of macromolecules, sustained release and targeted delivery. I will present an overview of these technologies and their commercial as well as clinical translation.


Decorative Cosmetics

Innovating for the Luxury Consumer – Connecting with Consumers through Authenticity and Key Drivers of Desirability

Amy Wyatt

Consumers expectations and profiles are evolving. It is important for the world of luxury to reinvent itself while staying authentic to core values.

There are multifaceted challenges to luxury:

  • Accessible luxury has brought luxury codes to mass reducing the level of prestige. New codes and ways to differentiate are required.
  • Digital transformation makes exclusivity accessible and creates opportunity for new brands to more easily establish themselves. Established brands need to be agile in staying relevant competing in this fast paced environment.
  • Omni Consumers are extremely knowledgeable about products and shop in multiple formats. Brands must uniquely meet the consumer at each point of entry ensuring a fluid connected experience.
  • New Generations are digital natives and social media gurus. They want to hear from each other rather than the traditional experts. Brands need to engage in relevant and inspiring ways through social media. Traditional brand experts need to create new value rather than rely on the consumer coming to them for knowledge.

These challenges call for new fundamentals of luxury shifting from: expertise to innovation, storytelling to storyliving, tradition to transgression, celebrity to singularity, advertising to aspirational proximity, and culture to counterculture.

CHANEL is ranked as the premier house of luxury. Success has been gained through staying authentic to our core values and creative adherence to traditional fundamentals. However, the brand recognizes the importance of understanding the changing consumer and has created exciting ways to address new drivers of desirability.

Innovation has been at the core of CHANEL heritage. Gabrielle Chanel was a bold audacious creator. Many of her innovations are still relevant almost a century later and gives inspiration to our innovations today.


Sensory Analysis

Recent Developments in Sensory Methods

Dr. Hal MacFie

Sensory Science provides a detailed description of the sensory properties of foods, beverages and personal products and links this data to analytical and instrumental data and liking data from consumer studies. These properties may be measured using trained sensory assessors or naïve consumers. We will describe recent developments under the following headings:

Rapid methods using naive consumers: Examples of these methods are: • Check all that apply (CATA) scales instead of rating scales • Projective Mapping – respondents place products on a map and mark their own descriptors • Free sorting of products followed by freely selected descriptors • Temporal Dominance (TDS) where respondents simply note which attribute is dominant continuously throughout a consumption sequence.

Emotional reactions before during and after consumption: There are many ways to measure emotions and we will review the most widely used. The emotional and sensory measures towards products assessed blind can be compared with those when the brand packaging is present (informed) or when the only the packaging is present (expected). This enables us to enable maximise congruence between sensory properties and brand attributes which has been shown to be a crucial element in successful product development.

Context and external factors: A substantial literature now quantifies how many external aspects of product use and consumption affect consumer’s perception of the sensory experience. Simple reading of concept descriptions has been replaced by viewing brand packaging in an immersive condition. Most recently the use of Virtual Reality equipment to manipulate context is being adopted.

Beyond Liking: Several papers have documented the poor relation between observed liking scores collected in a Central Location trial to subsequent sales performance. Measures that are more predictive of consumer choice and more particularly repurchase are being tested. A crucial component in repurchase is memory and sensory researchers are exploring which odours are most effective in generating good and/or strongly held memories.

Causal, Path, Artificial Intelligence and Bayesian Modelling: The need to derive complex path models that describe causal relations between composition, sensory, emotion, liking, choice and repurchase is now urgent. The prospects for Artificial Intelligence to improve our modelling and Bayesian methods to improve our decision making are not clear but work is beginning.

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